By Gary Walther
Bologna is the Rodney Dangerfield of Italian cities. De-spite having what many consider the best cuisine in Italy, a beautifully preserved
with miles and miles of porticos, the city’s signature architectural element, and a clutch of new museums created through the adaptive reuse of centuries-old palaces, it just can’t get any respect from Americans.
In part, that’s because Bologna sits amid a quartet of itinerary heavy hitters, Florence, Milan, Rome and Venice, and also because Bologna, while full of great art, isn’t associated with one great artist as are Florence (Michelangelo), Milan (Leon-ardo), and Venice (Titian).
Well, it’s time to discover the city Italians call “Bologna il Grasso” (Bologna the Fat) for its good cooking—it’s the birthplace of tortellini, by the way. This April is the perfect opportunity, given the slew of promotional Business Class fares offered from Air France, American Airlines, British Air-ways, Continental, Delta, Iberia, KLM, Lufthansa, SWISS, United, and US Airways. Round-trip fares range from $1,900 from New York to $2,700 from various western cities such as Las Vegas, Los Angeles, and Phoenix.
Fare Opportunity Fine Print
Departure window: April 1 to April 13. Return window: April 7 to April 18. Ticketing deadline: Feb. 13. Saturday-night stay required. Lufthansa, SWISS, and United also offer First Class promotional fares to Bologna. From New York, a roundtrip ticket costs $4,100 and from Los Angeles, $5,700. The restrictions are the same as above, except for the ticket-ing deadline, which is Jan.4.
Where to Stay
Bologna Art Hotels: Four properties, all in the city center. Of them, my favorites are the Orologio and the Novecento, both just off Piazza Maggiore. Check out the online rates. If you want something grander, stay at the Commercianti or Corona d’Oro. Make sure to pick up the Art Hotels city guide when you check in. It’s handsomely produced, covers the major sites, and throws in some concise history, too.
What to See
Genus Bononiae Museums: Seven museums (and one more on the way) created by restoring historic palaces. Highlights include the Salone dei Carracci in Palazzo Fava, the first great undertaking of the Carracci brothers, who would go on to find artistic fame in 17th-century Rome; and the tiny church of Santa Maria della Vita, which contains a harrow-ing sculptural ensemble by Niccolo dell’Arca of the dead Christ surrounded by the Virgin Mary Magdalene, and some of the apostles.
Basilica of San Petronio: An immense, The city once had scores of these brick spires built (scholars think) as a last refuge in time of strife. These two, right next to each other, are all that remain.
Dining Out
The one restaurant you shouldn’t miss. Not a Michelin-star temple, just one guy, Danielle Minarelli, passionate about local products and top ingredients. Via Santa Caterina, 51.
Sample of Special Business Class Fares to Bologna
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