St. Petersburg, Russia’s Window on the West

June 2011
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By Gary Walther

Russia

If you want an example of raw power, you need to look no further than Russia’s most popular city for foreign visitors. A little more than 300 years ago, this was the delta of the Neva River, a vast swamp. In 1703, Emperor Peter the Great decreed that a city would rise here to protect the territory he had just taken from Sweden. Thousands of laborers and slaves carried out the Tsar’s command and by 1712 St. Petersburg had become Russia’s capital. From then until 1917, it was embellished with palaces, churches, and noble residences, many of which remain today, offering the sharpest view of imperial Russia.

The Deal

A bit sophisticated. It involves “breaking the fare,” airlinespeak for buying two separate round-trip tickets to reach your destination. In this case, from the U.S. to Helsinki and then from Helsinki to St. Petersburg (55 minutes). Using this strategy beats the lowest published 50-day advance fare ($4,055 from NYC) by about 50%. Plus, you can stop over in Helsinki if you want.

Sample of Promotional Business Class Fares to Helsinki

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The Fare: Starts at $1,668 (plus taxes and fees of up to $500+) to Helsinki on Air France, Continental, Delta, KLM, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, and United. A separate flight to St. Petersburg in coach class is about $200, and $650 in Business Class on Finnair.

The Drawback: None of these carriers flies non-stop to Helsinki. (Air France goes via Paris, Lufthansa via Frankfurt.)

Restriction: Valid for travel June 17 to Sept. 5.; purchase deadline is Aug. 27, except for Air France, Delta, and KLM (Sept. 5). Minimum stay, one Saturday night; maximum stay, 12 months.

Destination

The Big Seven Sights to See:

State Russian Museum:The world’s finest collection of Russian art, period. Opened in 1898 by Tsar Nicolas II in homage to his father, Tsar Alexander III, who started the collection. Peterhof: Often referred to as “the Russian Versailles,” this was Peter the Great’s imperial playground on the Gulf of Finland, not far outside the city.

State Russian Museum

Tsarskoe Selo: A case of imperial one-upmanship, an 18thcentury pleasure palace erected by the Romanovs in the nearby town (today a suburb) of Pushkin. The complex surpasses Peterhof in excess. The Catherine Palace is Tsarskoe Selo’s top attraction, particularly renowned for the extraordinary Amber Room. Arrive early in season or be prepared to stand in a long line.

The Hermitage Impressionist Collection: 74 works taken from Germany after World War II which can’t leave the country lest they be confiscated.

Church of the Savior of the Spilled Blood: Where Czar Alexander II was assassinated in 1881, now brilliantly restored. Look for the tiles marking the exact spot of the murder.

St. Issac’s Cathedral: A monolith with a staggering gold dome that survived the 900-day siege in World War II.

Mariinsky Theatre: The interior opulence alone is worth the price of a ballet ticket. If orchestra seats are sold out, buy the upper balconies, which offer a fine view of the magnificent ceiling fresco.

Where to Stay

Kempinski Hotel Moika 22: A five-star hotel only steps from Palace Square. Ask for a room with a view of the Winter Palace. (Caveat emptor: Mainly a business hotel for conferences.)

Hotel Astoria: Contemporary luxury from the Rocco Forte Group in a historic building in the center. Hotel Angelterre: The Astoria’s smaller, but no less luxurious sister property.

Hotel Angelterre: The Astoria’s smaller, but no less luxurioussister property.

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<small><em>*Taxes and fees no included.</em></small>